Fleece Artist River 40% Alpaca, 30% Merino, 30% Silk (125g/4.4oz, 175m/191yd, 8wpi, equiv Aust 10ply, CYCA #4 Worsted or Aran)
2 skeins Colour Peridot (only 150g used for short version).
Needles and Notions
4.5mm (US 7) needles (either two circulars or a pair of straights and a set of dpns); 2 stitch holders; 1 stitch marker; cable needle; tapestry needle.
20 sts to 10cm (4 inches) over stocking stitch, unblocked
You start with a provisional cast on at the centre of the front band and proceed in both directions down to where the front and neck bands meet. Then a second provisional cast on starts the neck band, with work proceeding in both directions. Then the two bands are joined and worked together to each end. Finally stitches are picked up around the insides of the bands and worked into a central point (see diagram 1).
Read the charts from right to left on right side (odd numbered) rows and from left to right on wrong side (even numbered) rows. Where possible, I have lined up stitches in columns as they appear in your knitting. Occasionally, however, blank spaces have been introduced to facilitate the chart drawing (ignore blank squares, they do not represent any stitches).
Sizes Generous (to fit most heads with extra slouch in 10ply weight) or Average (to fit most heads with ease in 8ply weight). Sample shown in size Generous; Length of short scarf shown 90cm (35.5inch); hat circumference 66cm (26inch); hood attached to hat extends out 11cm (4.5inch)
Using Judy's Magic Cast On and your circular needle, cast on 28 sts to your bottom needle and 29 sts to your top needle, with a couple of modifications: (1) Instead of starting with a slipknot, fold the yarn in half so there is a 1m (1.1yd) tail and just twist the loop around a couple of times before placing it on your top needle; (2) wrap your yarn around the top needle in the opposite direction to that specified in Judy's instructions (i.e. bring the yarn tail between the two needles then over the front, to the back of the top needle so you won't have to knit into the back of these stitches when you come to them). Now turn your needles around so that the tips point to the right (and the bottom needle is now on top) and pull the (new) bottom needle through the 29 stitches so that they slide onto a stitch holder (until you come back to complete the other side of the front band).
Right side: Work 176 rows from Chart 1 on the 28 stitches on your top needle. Break yarn and slide these stitches onto a stitch holder. Go back to your provisional cast on.
Left side (the other provisional cast on side): With the wrong side facing you, and using the yarn tail, work a setup row as follows: sl1pwisewyif, p4, k8, p1, p2tog, k8, p4, k1. Note that the p2tog in the middle of the row will bring the stems into alignment on each half. Join in a new yarn end (I just let them hang and wove them in later) and starting with the right side facing, work 176 rows from Chart 2. Leave the yarn attached and set the front band aside for later.
First half of Neck Band and Left Side
Starting in the same way as for the front band, cast on 14 stitches onto your bottom needle and 15 stitches onto your top needle. Setting up as for the front band, work 128 rows from Chart 3. Leave your yarn attached here since you will use it later for picking up stitches in the centre.
Go back to the left side of your front band, and working from Chart 4, work across the stitches of the front band and those from the neck band just completed as shown in diagram 2 (note that you will knit together the last stitch from the front band and the first stitch from the neck band in working the first row of this chart). Complete the 46 rows of Chart 4. At this point you can either make the scarf longer by repeating the 16 rows of Chart 5 as many times as you wish (each repeat will add approximately 6.5cm or 2.5inch to the length of the scarf), or move directly onto Chart 6. Complete the 36 rows of Chart 6, break yarn and draw through the last stitch.
Second half of Neck Band and Right Side
Go back to the provisional cast on for the neck band and, as before, use the yarn tail to work a setup row as follows: sl1pwisewyif, p3, p2tog, p8, k1. Note that the p2tog in the middle of the row will bring the cables into alignment on each half. Join in a new yarn end (I just let them hang and wove them in later) and starting with the right side facing, work 128 rows from Chart 7.
Now work from Chart 8 to join the right side bands together, working across the stitches of the neck band and those from the right side of the front band set aside earlier (you will ssk together the last stitch from the neck band and the first stitch from the front band in working the first row of this chart). Complete the 46 rows of Chart 8. Now work from Charts 5 and/or 6 to match the other side.
Using a short circular needle (or dpns if you prefer), and starting where your yarn is still attached at the end of Chart 3, pick up and knit 41 stitches along the inside of each half of the front band (k1, p1 into two stitches evenly spread along each half), then 30 stitches along the inside of the neck band. You should pick up both loops of every slipped stitch along the inside edges and finish with 112 sts including the four increases described above.
Place a marker two stitches back from the end of your pick up row (this will be the beginning of your row after working the first setup row). First setup row (starting two stitches after your marker): k2, p10, (k4, p10) x 7. Second setup row: (k4, p10) x 8. Now work 141 rows of Chart 9, repeating the charted section eight times. At some point in the decreases you will have to switch to dpns, magic loop, or add in a second circular needle. To finish, break yarn and pull through the remaining eight stitches. Tie off and weave in end on inside of cap.
Weave in remaining ends. To block, place over a bowl for the centre (cap) section.